Paddling the Pascagoula, 1954

As I've mentioned here before, one of the greatest rewards of being an author is hearing from readers of my books about how reading one of them either inspired them to go out and do something adventurous or reminded them of a past pleasure from a similar experience.

This week I got an email from Mike Warnock, a reader of Paddling the Pascagoula who said he could relate to the narrative because he had made his own journeys down the river in the mid 1950's, along with fellow members of Boy Scout Troop 220 of Moss Point.

In the photo above, from 1954, Mike is the kid in the straw hat in the back of the second canoe. He said the longest trip they did on the river was 5 days and 150 miles. They saw few, if any people, and he doesn't remember seeing any of the sewer discharges or trash Ernest Herndon and I reported in our book from our trip in 2004, fifty years later.

Last summer Troop 220 had a reunion at a cabin out from Lucedale, not far from the river (see photo below). Mike is now living in Idaho and is still an outdoorsman. Their Scoutmaster, Sam Wilkes, now 83, is the man in the front center.

I told Mike that I envied those experiences he had at that perfect age for canoeing a river. Though I went on to become fanatical for many years about canoeing and sea kayaking, I never set foot in a canoe until I was 18 years old. Canoeing was almost unheard of around the small town where I grew up, and we did not have an active Scout Troop that did that sort of thing.

Ernest and I have often discussed the fact that Mississippi, a state blessed with woods and water, including thousands of miles of perfect streams for canoeing, just does not have a canoe culture. Even today, anyone paddling a canoe on the bigger rivers of the state like the Pascagoula or the Pearl is looked on with disbelief by the local fishermen in their John boats with outboards. This may never change, but for those of us who do recognize it, this state has some of the finest canoe waters in the country, and the Pascagoula River System surely has some of the finest in the state. I would have loved the opportunity to make such a journey down the river at the age or ten or twelve, but as it turned out there were plenty of opportunities later, and hopefully will be many more in the future.

Virgin Islands Kayak Adventure

As an author, it's always great to get emails from readers of my books who benefited in some way from something I have written. It's even better when I hear that something I wrote has inspired readers to go out and do some adventuring of their own. That's a big part of why I've written narratives of some of my trips, especially the account of my Caribbean kayak trip of twenty years ago:

On Island Time: Kayaking the Caribbean

About a year ago, I received an email from Scott Finazzo, a firefighter from Kansas City who read On Island Time while he was off from work on injury leave. He told me that the book gave him the idea of kayaking in the Caribbean and he passed on the inspiration to a handful of his coworkers and plans were soon made to spend a few weeks paddling the Virgin Islands.

Incredibly, despite the fact that none of them were sea kayakers or boat builders, they came up with their own designs for take-apart skin-on-frame kayaks, built them, and pulled this trip off in a little less than a year from that first email Scott sent me. Just a week ago, I received another email from him with a link to his blog, where he posted the above photo as well as a series of write-ups about their adventures and some video clips. I won't attempt to describe their trip here. Get it straight from Scott at his blog:

Lure of the Horizon

The photos and the descriptions took me right back to my passage through those fabulous islands. I'm really glad these guys got to go there and paddle and that my book played some part in it. I'll be looking forward to more in the future on Lure of the Horizon.

Gear and Supplies for Two Weeks on a Southern River

Gear and Food Supplies for 2 weeks of Deep South river paddling:

(Note: This article was written in 2004 when I was in preparation for the trip described in my book, Paddling The Pascagoula. The boat I used for the two-week journey was the 17-foot Pygmy Arctic Tern, a stitch and glue kayak I built from a kit.)

People unfamiliar with small boat travel often ask me how I carry enough food and supplies in a boat as small as my kayak. Though it might seem improbable, here is my checklist of stuff that has to go into and on the deck of my 17-foot long by 23-inch wide kayak:

Kayak Gear:

Two-piece ultralight wood paddle --2-piece composite spare paddle -- neoprene spray skirt-- PFD-- paddle float rescue device-- bilge pump-- bailing sponge-- deck-mounted compass-- rescue knife-- dry bags-- deck-mounted chart/map case-- bungie cords on deck

Navigation, photography, and communication:

Garmin E-trex GPS receiver-- Suunto hand-bearing compass-- Fujinon waterproof 7 x 35 binoculars with internal bearing compass-- 1:12,000 scale topographic maps and matching aerial photographs for entire river course--watch-- Nikon N-65 SLR camera with 35-90 mm zoom and 70-300 mm zoom lenses-- 8 rolls color print film--4 rolls color slide film-- tripod-- Kodak CX6330 Digital Camera with 256MB SD card-- approximately 36 AA Duracell batteries for GPS and digital camera-- cell phone--12-volt DC charger cord and 1.8 watt compact solar-charging panel for the phone

(Update: I don't carry a film camera anymore. The Nikon N-65 has been replaced with a Nikon D 50 digital SLR, using the same lenses I used on the N-65. Film, of course, is now replaced with severl 512MB and 1GB SD cards. The Kodak point and shoot camera is still carried for capturing video clips.)

Camping Gear

Eureka Timberline tent-- plastic ground sheet-- 6 x 8 tarp-- tent stakes-- cordage-- sleeping bag-- Thermarest pad-- Crazy Creek folding chair-- army hammock-- inflatable pillow-- Primus propane stove-- 3 bottles of propane-- skillet-- cookpot-- utensils-- teapot-- coffee strainer-- cup-- Polar Pure water purification system-- Nalgene water bottles-- Bic lighters-- machete-- two AA mini-maglights-- one D-cell maglight

Clothing and Misc. accessories

Colombia rain jacket-- hiking boots-- river shoes-- river sandals-- T-shirts-- long sleeve canvas shirt-- 2-pair military BDU pants-- 2-pair cargo shorts-- swim shorts-- wool socks-- wide-brim hat-- sunscreen-- sunglasses w retainer cord-- spare sunglasses-- trash bags-- toothbrush-- toilet paper-- shampoo-- small towel-- mirror-- razors-- vitamins-- snakebite kit (Extractor)-- Epipen shot (for wasp stings)-- Tylenol-- misc. First-Aid supplies-- field guide to trees-- field guide to edible plants-- journal-- pens-- pencils-- Gerber multi-tool-- duct tape --firearm and ammo (Usually a .45 auto pistol, or my folding Kel-tec 9mm carbine. Sometimes a .22 rifle if it's small game hunting season)

Food and Drink

Pancake mix-- maple syrup-- oatmeal-- granola cereal-- powdered milk-- walnuts-- almonds-- raisins-- dried fruit-- cooking oil-- olives-- M&M's-- honey--Wheat Thin crackers (2 bx)-- Triscuit crackers (2) box-- sardines in mustard sauce (14 cans)-- tuna in water (10 cans)-- Lipton rice meals (7 packs)-- Lipton pasta meals (7 packs)-- chile with beans (2 cans)-- chunky soup (2 cans)-- black beans (2 cans)-- fruit and cereal bars (14)--powdered Gatorade-- powdered Koolaid-- cheese (3 blocks) swiss and cheddar-- Tabasco sauce-- Tony Chacere's Creole seasoning-- hot chocolate (10 packs)-- various types of herbal tea bags-- Captain Morgan spiced rum (1 bottle)--a few good cigars

Yes, this does all fit into the storage compartments and cockpit of the kayak. The trick is to package everything into small dry bags and 1-gallon Ziploc freezer bags so that every available cubic inch of space is utilized. Weight is seldom an issue in sea kayaks. I've found that if the stuff will fit in the available volume, it will float.

This article was first published in the Scott's Boat Page newsletter, April 2004

Camping On Mississippi's Barrier Islands

Mississippi’s barrier islands offer a unique wilderness camping experience for those who want to get away from the mainland and try an island lifestyle, if only for a weekend. Can you imagine walking miles of beaches in the light of a full moon without a road, casino, or house in sight? How about waking up on an empty expanse of white sand, with nothing but Gulf of Mexico at your front door and miles of forest and marsh to explore in the interior? These experiences and more can be found on the barrier islands that lie just over the horizon across the Mississippi Sound. Camping comfortably on these barrier islands, however, requires some special techniques and equipment to deal with changing conditions encountered there. Scorching sun, relentless winds, and fierce insect hordes can all conspire to make these islands seem anything but paradise to those who are not prepared.

These considerations make the tent the most important item on the camper’s checklist. It pays to invest in a good tent. Cheap dome tents with fiberglass poles do not fare well in heavy rain squalls and the strong winds that sweep unimpeded across the exposed beaches of the barrier islands. Better tents have lightweight but strong aluminum poles, and a separate rain fly that attaches over the main tent. I favor the A-frame designs over domes. These allow you to open the doors at least part way for ventilation on hot but rainy nights. Good tents also feature finer mesh in the screens of windows and doors. This is an absolute necessity on the islands, where tiny biting gnats called “no-see-ums” can attack in such numbers that the unprepared will be driven off the island. This happened to me on one of my first trips many years ago in a cheap dome tent with standard mosquito netting. In addition to the tent, you will need plenty of good stakes to secure it against high winds in the deep and shifting sands that make up these island beaches. The best tent stakes for sand are the plastic ones that are T-shaped in cross-section and at least an inch wide for holding power. Use stakes that are a foot long or more, and drive them deeply with a mallet or piece of driftwood. I also like to carry a light tarp in addition to a tent to set up as an awning for cooking in rainy weather or for shade on a hot day. This will require extra tent stakes, line, and some sort of pole or piece of driftwood for setting up, but it is well worth carrying.

Island cooking can be done with a fire, but be aware that fires are permitted in the Gulf Islands National Seashore only in the sand below the high tide line. A better option is a portable camp stove. The ones that use disposable propane bottles are the most efficient and reliable. Cookware should be of stainless steel, and can be scrubbed clean with beach sand as long as it is not Teflon-coated.

Fresh water is a precious commodity on the barrier islands. Carry as much as you can, and more than you think you’ll need, for drinking, cooking, and washing; and be sure it is in leak-proof containers so it is not spilled and wasted. If you go wilderness camping on Mississippi’s barrier islands, you need to plan to be self-sufficient. Carry everything you think you’ll need, and take everything you carry back home with you. Many people don’t realize they can travel light, camp in remote places, and still be comfortable. To me, part of the pleasure in wilderness travel is feeling at home wherever I may stop for the night. And feeling at home means being sheltered, well-fed, and comfortable. I am including here an abbreviated gear checklist for island camping, as well as rules and regulations for camping in the Gulf Islands National Seashore. More specifics on gear, techniques, and where to go can be found in my book: Exploring Coastal Mississippi: A Guide to the Marine Waters and Islands, University Press of Mississippi, 2004. In future articles here I plan to discuss sea kayaking equipment and techniques, look at other boat types suitable for camp cruising, and for those who do not have their own boats, profile various outfitters and charter operators who can provide transportation to the islands.

Island Camping Checklist: (The Basic Essentials)

Tent with “no-see-um” netting, strong poles Extra tarp or rain fly

Tent stakes that work in sand, mallet and extra line for tie-downs

Self-inflating sleeping pad or air mattress

Sleeping bag

Camp stove and fuel

Stove lighters or matches

Stainless steel cookware (skillet, coffee pot, cook pot, etc.)

Stainless or plastic utensils, cups, bowls, plates

Compact can opener

Trash bags

Biodegradable liquid soap

Cooking and drinking water in leak proof containers

Waterproof flashlight (with spare bulbs, batteries)

Insect repellent

Sunscreen

Rain jacket and pants, or poncho

Hiking boots or shoes

Long sleeve shirt and pants (even in hot weather- for insect protection when needed)

Swimwear

Hat for sun protection

Basic first aid supplies, snakebite kit,

Benadryl (for stings)

Toothbrush, toilet paper, etc.

Sunglasses

Camera, binoculars, notebook (optional)

Hammock and good book (optional)

Camping in the Gulf Islands National Seashore

Beach camping is permitted on Petit Bois, Horn, East Ship Island, and the parts of Cat Island that are included in the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Camping is not permitted anywhere on West Ship Island.

Permits are not required for camping on the islands, but certain areas may be closed by the rangers at various time to protect nesting birds and other plant and animal species.

Fires are permitted only below the high tide line where waves will carry the debris away. Driftwood is abundant, so cutting firewood is not permitted.

Glass bottles or containers of any kind are prohibited on all the islands, as are firearms.

Campers should come prepared, with all food, water, fuel, etc. they will need for the duration of their stay. It is not the job of the park rangers to supply these essentials to the ill-prepared.

(This article was first published in South Mississippi Outdoors and Recreation, July 2004)

* * *

Much more information on the barrier islands of Mississippi is available in my book, Exploring Coastal Mississippi. Although Hurricane Katrina drastically changed the man made structures on the coast and rendered much of the marina and services information in this book obsolete, the natural features of the islands were less affected and the information published about them is still useful.